Asia · Sumatra: orangutans, Lake Toba & Pulau Weh
Trek to wild orangutans in the Leuser rainforest, climb a steaming volcano, swim in the world's largest crater lake, and dive off Pulau Weh.
Overview
Sumatra is Indonesia's wild side: huge, green and still off the main tourist trail. In the north, Bukit Lawang is one of the best places on Earth to see Sumatran orangutans in the wild, on a trek through the Gunung Leuser rainforest. The cool Karo highlands around Berastagi have active volcanoes you can climb at sunrise. Lake Toba, a supervolcano crater filled with water, is surrounded by Batak villages and is wonderfully relaxing. At the northern tip, Pulau Weh has coral reefs straight off the beach. It's cheap, friendly and adventurous, but not polished: roads are slow, English is limited and accommodation is simple. There's no self-driving here; everyone uses drivers and shared tourist cars.
Scorecard
Tap a criterion to see why it got that score.
Average of 20 criteria
Rich, spicy and varied: Padang food, rendang, Batak dishes, Acehnese curries and coffee, Medan's street food.
Batak villages and architecture, the tsunami memorials in Banda Aceh; nature comes first.
Rainforest, volcanoes, the huge Toba crater lake and coral reefs.
Pulau Weh has lovely coves and reefs, but few sandy beaches.
Wild orangutans, gibbons, hornbills, and excellent marine life at Pulau Weh.
Jungle trekking, volcano hikes, river tubing, diving and snorkelling.
Very quiet; Aceh is dry (no alcohol).
Lake Toba and Pulau Weh are very relaxing; the trek and roads are not.
Jungle, highlands, a crater lake and a tropical island.
18–22 h with two connections (via Singapore or Kuala Lumpur).
Private cars and shared tourist cars on slow, winding roads; long travel days.
Little English outside guesthouses, basic infrastructure; Aceh has Islamic law.
+5 h (summer) / +6 h (winter).
10–14 days covers the north well; 2.5 weeks adds West Sumatra (Bukittinggi, Harau valley).
Very cheap: guesthouses CHF 15–40, meals CHF 2–6, drivers CHF 50–90 a day.
Hot and humid with frequent showers; cooler in Berastagi and at Toba.
Friendly and safe for travellers; road safety and volcano/flood risks are the main issues.
Dengue, some malaria risk in rural areas, rabies; basic hospitals outside Medan.
Simple guesthouses and eco-lodges; few comfortable hotels.
Very few tourists; you often have the jungle, lake and reefs to yourselves.
When to go
February–March and June–August are best. Avoid October–December, the wettest months, when floods and landslides can cut roads.
Getting there
Fly to Medan Kualanamu (KNO) with two stops, usually via Singapore or Kuala Lumpur, 18–22 h in total. Return from Banda Aceh (BTJ) via Kuala Lumpur to avoid backtracking.
| Routing | Airline | Stops | Travel time | Return, economy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GVA → ZRH → SIN → KNO | SWISS / Singapore Airlines + Scoot / Singapore Airlines | 2 | 18h–21h | CHF 900–1400 |
| GVA → DOH → KUL → KNO | Qatar Airways + AirAsia / Batik Air | 2 | 19h–23h | CHF 800–1300 |
| GVA → IST → KUL → KNO | Turkish Airlines + AirAsia | 2 | 19h–23h | CHF 750–1200 |
| BTJ → KUL → GVA (return) One-way price for the return from Banda Aceh. | AirAsia + Qatar / Turkish / Emirates | 2 | 20h–24h | CHF 450–750 |
Itinerary
Pick a trip length. Day 1 is arrival day and the last day is departure day; the overnight flights are extra. Each transfer lists every option, with the recommended one first.
The North Sumatra loop: jungle, highlands and the great crater lake.
🧭 Explorer 4 bases · 4 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A drive through plantations up to cool Berastagi, with a stop at the fruit market.
Passion fruit, markisa juice and highland oranges.
An early climb up the steaming Sibayak volcano (2,212 m), then soak in the Semangat Gunung hot springs.
3 h up from town (start at 4:30), fumaroles and views of Sinabung erupting in the distance.
Sulphur pools at the foot of the volcano.
Down to Lake Toba via the 120-m Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry from Parapat to Tuk Tuk.
A waterfall dropping into a canyon at the lake's northern end.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry to Parapat, then a car to Kualanamu airport for the flight home.
The lake is calmest early.
Two bases and one long drive: the jungle, then the lake.
🌴 Relaxed 3 bases · 3 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A cooking class, a rubber and palm-sugar plantation walk, or just the hammock.
Rendang, sambal and gado-gado with a local family.
Rubber tapping, cocoa and palm sugar.
One long day by private car, with stops at Berastagi's fruit market and the Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry to Samosir.
A photo stop above the waterfall.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry to Parapat, then a car to Kualanamu airport for the flight home.
The lake is calmest early.
Cooking class and plantation walk in Bukit Lawang.
🧭 Explorer 4 bases · 4 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A cooking class, a rubber and palm-sugar plantation walk, or just the hammock.
Rendang, sambal and gado-gado with a local family.
Rubber tapping, cocoa and palm sugar.
A drive through plantations up to cool Berastagi, with a stop at the fruit market.
Passion fruit, markisa juice and highland oranges.
An early climb up the steaming Sibayak volcano (2,212 m), then soak in the Semangat Gunung hot springs.
3 h up from town (start at 4:30), fumaroles and views of Sinabung erupting in the distance.
Sulphur pools at the foot of the volcano.
Down to Lake Toba via the 120-m Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry from Parapat to Tuk Tuk.
A waterfall dropping into a canyon at the lake's northern end.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry to Parapat, then a car to Kualanamu airport for the flight home.
The lake is calmest early.
Swimming and Batak songs.
🌴 Relaxed 3 bases · 3 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A cooking class, a rubber and palm-sugar plantation walk, or just the hammock.
Rendang, sambal and gado-gado with a local family.
Rubber tapping, cocoa and palm sugar.
One long day by private car, with stops at Berastagi's fruit market and the Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry to Samosir.
A photo stop above the waterfall.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry to Parapat, then a car to Kualanamu airport for the flight home.
The lake is calmest early.
Finish with diving and snorkelling at the northern tip of Sumatra.
🧭 Explorer 6 bases · 6 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A drive through plantations up to cool Berastagi, with a stop at the fruit market.
Passion fruit, markisa juice and highland oranges.
An early climb up the steaming Sibayak volcano (2,212 m), then soak in the Semangat Gunung hot springs.
3 h up from town (start at 4:30), fumaroles and views of Sinabung erupting in the distance.
Sulphur pools at the foot of the volcano.
Down to Lake Toba via the 120-m Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry from Parapat to Tuk Tuk.
A waterfall dropping into a canyon at the lake's northern end.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Ferry and car back to Medan, and an evening eating your way around the city.
Soto Medan, durian at Ucok Durian, and martabak at Merdeka Walk.
The Sultan of Deli's yellow palace.
A short flight to Banda Aceh, a look at the tsunami memorials, then the fast ferry to Pulau Weh.
A moving memorial: a 2,600-tonne ship carried 5 km inland in 2004.
A boat to Rubiah island, right opposite Iboih: coral gardens, turtles and reef sharks.
Some of the best snorkelling in Indonesia straight off the beach.
The northernmost point of Indonesia, at sunset.
Two dives at Batee Tokong or the Canyon: big schools of fish, eagle rays and, with luck, mantas.
Dive shops in Gapang and Iboih; try-dives for beginners.
White sand on the east coast.
The morning fast ferry back to Banda Aceh and a flight to Kuala Lumpur for your connection home.
Kopi Aceh, strained through a cloth, at a coffee house near the port.
Five nights in the jungle, six at the lake.
🌴 Relaxed 3 bases · 3 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A cooking class, a rubber and palm-sugar plantation walk, or just the hammock.
Rendang, sambal and gado-gado with a local family.
Rubber tapping, cocoa and palm sugar.
A cooking class, a rubber and palm-sugar plantation walk, or just the hammock.
Rendang, sambal and gado-gado with a local family.
Rubber tapping, cocoa and palm sugar.
One long day by private car, with stops at Berastagi's fruit market and the Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry to Samosir.
A photo stop above the waterfall.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry to Parapat, then a car to Kualanamu airport for the flight home.
The lake is calmest early.
A hike above the lake.
🧭 Explorer 6 bases · 6 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A drive through plantations up to cool Berastagi, with a stop at the fruit market.
Passion fruit, markisa juice and highland oranges.
An early climb up the steaming Sibayak volcano (2,212 m), then soak in the Semangat Gunung hot springs.
3 h up from town (start at 4:30), fumaroles and views of Sinabung erupting in the distance.
Sulphur pools at the foot of the volcano.
Down to Lake Toba via the 120-m Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry from Parapat to Tuk Tuk.
A waterfall dropping into a canyon at the lake's northern end.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Ferry and car back to Medan, and an evening eating your way around the city.
Soto Medan, durian at Ucok Durian, and martabak at Merdeka Walk.
The Sultan of Deli's yellow palace.
A short flight to Banda Aceh, a look at the tsunami memorials, then the fast ferry to Pulau Weh.
A moving memorial: a 2,600-tonne ship carried 5 km inland in 2004.
A boat to Rubiah island, right opposite Iboih: coral gardens, turtles and reef sharks.
Some of the best snorkelling in Indonesia straight off the beach.
The northernmost point of Indonesia, at sunset.
Two dives at Batee Tokong or the Canyon: big schools of fish, eagle rays and, with luck, mantas.
Dive shops in Gapang and Iboih; try-dives for beginners.
White sand on the east coast.
The morning fast ferry back to Banda Aceh and a flight to Kuala Lumpur for your connection home.
Kopi Aceh, strained through a cloth, at a coffee house near the port.
Three long stays (plus a food night in Medan).
🌴 Relaxed 5 bases · 5 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
One long day by private car, with stops at Berastagi's fruit market and the Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry to Samosir.
A photo stop above the waterfall.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry and car back to Medan, and an evening eating your way around the city.
Soto Medan, durian at Ucok Durian, and martabak at Merdeka Walk.
The Sultan of Deli's yellow palace.
A short flight to Banda Aceh, a look at the tsunami memorials, then the fast ferry to Pulau Weh.
A moving memorial: a 2,600-tonne ship carried 5 km inland in 2004.
A boat to Rubiah island, right opposite Iboih: coral gardens, turtles and reef sharks.
Some of the best snorkelling in Indonesia straight off the beach.
The northernmost point of Indonesia, at sunset.
Hammock, snorkelling off the rocks, a waterfall walk or the hot springs of Jaboi volcano.
Monkeys, hornbills and coral a few steps from your bungalow.
Hammock, snorkelling off the rocks, a waterfall walk or the hot springs of Jaboi volcano.
Monkeys, hornbills and coral a few steps from your bungalow.
The morning fast ferry back to Banda Aceh and a flight to Kuala Lumpur for your connection home.
Kopi Aceh, strained through a cloth, at a coffee house near the port.
Jungle, volcano, lake and island.
🧭 Explorer 6 bases · 6 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A drive through plantations up to cool Berastagi, with a stop at the fruit market.
Passion fruit, markisa juice and highland oranges.
An early climb up the steaming Sibayak volcano (2,212 m), then soak in the Semangat Gunung hot springs.
3 h up from town (start at 4:30), fumaroles and views of Sinabung erupting in the distance.
Sulphur pools at the foot of the volcano.
Down to Lake Toba via the 120-m Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry from Parapat to Tuk Tuk.
A waterfall dropping into a canyon at the lake's northern end.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Ferry and car back to Medan, and an evening eating your way around the city.
Soto Medan, durian at Ucok Durian, and martabak at Merdeka Walk.
The Sultan of Deli's yellow palace.
A short flight to Banda Aceh, a look at the tsunami memorials, then the fast ferry to Pulau Weh.
A moving memorial: a 2,600-tonne ship carried 5 km inland in 2004.
A boat to Rubiah island, right opposite Iboih: coral gardens, turtles and reef sharks.
Some of the best snorkelling in Indonesia straight off the beach.
The northernmost point of Indonesia, at sunset.
Two dives at Batee Tokong or the Canyon: big schools of fish, eagle rays and, with luck, mantas.
Dive shops in Gapang and Iboih; try-dives for beginners.
White sand on the east coast.
Hammock, snorkelling off the rocks, a waterfall walk or the hot springs of Jaboi volcano.
Monkeys, hornbills and coral a few steps from your bungalow.
The morning fast ferry back to Banda Aceh and a flight to Kuala Lumpur for your connection home.
Kopi Aceh, strained through a cloth, at a coffee house near the port.
Jungle, lake and island at an easy pace.
🌴 Relaxed 5 bases · 5 moves
Arrive at Kualanamu airport and go straight to Bukit Lawang with a driver (3.5–4 h). Dinner by the river.
Listen to the jungle; gibbons call at dawn.
A 2-day trek in Gunung Leuser National Park with a licensed guide, looking for orangutans, Thomas leaf monkeys, gibbons and hornbills. Night in a river camp.
Steep, muddy and unforgettable; with meals, camp and park fees. Never feed or touch the orangutans.
Swim in the river, cook over a fire, and sleep under a tarp to the sound of the forest.
A last morning walk, then float back down the river on tied inner tubes.
Part of the trek: a fun ride through small rapids.
A short walk from the village to a cave with bats (bring a torch).
A cooking class, a rubber and palm-sugar plantation walk, or just the hammock.
Rendang, sambal and gado-gado with a local family.
Rubber tapping, cocoa and palm sugar.
One long day by private car, with stops at Berastagi's fruit market and the Sipiso-piso waterfall, then the ferry to Samosir.
A photo stop above the waterfall.
A loop around the north of Samosir: the stone chairs of Ambarita, the royal tombs of Tomok, and Batak dances at Simanindo.
Where the Batak kings once held trials.
Sarcophagi and souvenir stalls.
Traditional dance and a museum in a king's house.
Up to the viewpoints of Holbung hill or the Pusuk Buhit sacred mountain for the widest views of the crater.
Grassy ridges above the lake: a short but steep walk.
Warm, clean water right off the guesthouse jetty.
Swim from your jetty, a Batak cooking class, and live Batak songs in the evening.
Arsik (spiced carp) and naniura.
Guitar songs in the Tuk Tuk bars.
Ferry and car back to Medan, and an evening eating your way around the city.
Soto Medan, durian at Ucok Durian, and martabak at Merdeka Walk.
The Sultan of Deli's yellow palace.
A short flight to Banda Aceh, a look at the tsunami memorials, then the fast ferry to Pulau Weh.
A moving memorial: a 2,600-tonne ship carried 5 km inland in 2004.
A boat to Rubiah island, right opposite Iboih: coral gardens, turtles and reef sharks.
Some of the best snorkelling in Indonesia straight off the beach.
The northernmost point of Indonesia, at sunset.
Hammock, snorkelling off the rocks, a waterfall walk or the hot springs of Jaboi volcano.
Monkeys, hornbills and coral a few steps from your bungalow.
Hammock, snorkelling off the rocks, a waterfall walk or the hot springs of Jaboi volcano.
Monkeys, hornbills and coral a few steps from your bungalow.
The morning fast ferry back to Banda Aceh and a flight to Kuala Lumpur for your connection home.
Kopi Aceh, strained through a cloth, at a coffee house near the port.
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Getting around
Drivers and shared tourist cars between the stops, ferries to Samosir and Pulau Weh, and a domestic flight from Medan to Banda Aceh. Book everything through your guesthouse the day before.
The best way to travel: cheap, flexible and safe.
Shared tourist cars are cheap and convenient, but can be cramped.
Public buses are slow, crowded and hard to find.
Frequent ferries to Samosir; fast ferries to Pulau Weh.
Cheap domestic flights; Lion and Wings are often late.
Where to stay & budget
Per person per day, excluding international flights, sharing a room and splitting a private driver between two. With four people, drivers cost even less per person.
North Sumatra's chaotic capital and the international gateway. Not a sight in itself, but a great place to eat: Indian, Chinese, Malay and Batak food.
Where: Near Merdeka Walk, or an airport hotel for early flights.
A riverside village on the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, one of the last places on Earth to see wild and semi-wild Sumatran orangutans.
Where: Along the river, a short walk from the park entrance.
A cool highland market town at 1,300 m between two active volcanoes, Sibayak and Sinabung, surrounded by fruit and vegetable farms.
Where: In town, or near the hot springs at the foot of Sibayak.
The largest volcanic lake in the world, with an island the size of Singapore in the middle. Batak villages with boat-shaped roofs, swimming, and total calm.
Where: Tuk Tuk peninsula on Samosir, on the lakeshore.
A small green island at the northern tip of Sumatra, with some of the best diving and snorkelling in Indonesia right off the shore.
Where: Iboih (snorkelling) or Gapang (diving, quieter).
Practical
Information last checked: September 2026. Visa rules, prices and timetables change, so always check before booking.
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